Nanorevolution

To develop innovative and superior cosmetic skin care products, it is necessary to depart from basic technology and use key technologies. One of the key technologies, which can lead to innovative product changes, is nanotechnology. Nanoemulsions also have attracted considerable attention in recent years for application in personal care products as potential vehicles for the controlled delivery of cosmetics and for the optimised dispersion of active ingredients in particular skin layers.

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Nano-Emulsions background

The term nanoemulsion is actually a misnomer that is derived from the prefix "nano," meaning one-billionth and "emulsion," which is a heterogeneous system consisting of at least one immiscible liquid intimately dispersed in another in the form of droplets. Nanoemulsions, or ultrafine emulsions, have droplets in the submicron range, and are so small that the interaction of matter with light is very weak so that they may appear to be transparent or translucent, often with a bluish colour, and show high kinetic stability. The average droplet size of nanoemulsions has been defined differently as between 20 and 500 nm, between 50 and 1000 nm, and between 100-200 nm, broadly speaking in the 50500 nm (typically 200-300 nm). This is much smaller than the usual range (1-100 micron) for the usual macroemulsions. The small size of the emulsion droplets will give them inherent stability against creaming or sedimentation as well as against flocculation and coalescence and allows the effective delivery of active ingredients to the skin. With nanoemulsions, the ratio of adsorbed layer thickness to droplet radius is large and hence the steric repulsion is very strong, preventing any f1occuiation in the system.

Materials

Nanocream is a patented combination of lipoaminoacids and/or glycerides and/or polyglycerides and/or fatty acids esters, an original and innovative composition able to spontaneously create emulsions with particularly fine sizes of the droplets, typically smaller than 300 nm. This is considered a revolutionary concept in cosmetic technology because it permits the achievement of nano-particle sizes emulsions without using any synthetic surfactant or POEor PPG-derivative or phosphorous-based esters, and not requiring high inputs of mechanical or thermal energy. The resultant systems are particularly stable because they display low interfacial energies, thus being more compatible with the natural state of aggregation of the hydrophilic and lipophilic cutaneous factors of the skin. In the table below the INCI Name of Nanocream are shown. It is generally very difficult to obtain very small droplets in emulsions because it requires the application of a large amount of energy and/or surfactants. This can be understood from a consideration on the droplets vapor pressure. Higher stresses need more vigorous agitation and hence more energy, and this requires the use of high-pressure homogenizers. The preparation of conventional nano-emulsions requires mainly highpressure homogenization, high temperatures (greater than 80°C), which is unproductive due to its lower efficiency and limits their practical applications. This new technology of nano-emulsifying with Nanocream requires low temperatures during manufacturing process. Weight in a becker nanocream at room temperature. Add the oily phase as listed in the formula (oils, esters, Iiposolublei ngredients etc ... ). Mix with a blade impeller (150-250 rpm) for 1 0-12 minutes to incorporate all the components as much as possible. Thus, be sure to obtain a uniform and completely homogeneous phase. This represents an important step of the whole procedure. Start heating until Nanocream and oils form a homogeneous clear phase. Heat 25-30 per cent (w/w) of water available and Nanocream - Oil phase at the same temperature. Add very slowly small increments of water phase into the oily phase until a viscous lipogel is obtained. The formation of bluish coloration (Tindall colour) is typical of the nano particle size droplets and must be obtained in this step. Mix for at least five minutes again. Prepare the remaining water phase, dissolving all the components of the formula (preservatives, humectants, rheological additives ... ) All ingredients must be completely solubilized. Add remaining water phase, continue stirring for five to six minutes. Pay attention that temperature is the same for both phases. The suggested dosage for Nanocream is between two and 10 per cent, incorporated into the oil phase.